Pasta with Wild Fennels and Sardines

(“Pasta con Sarde” – “Pasta chi Sardi”)

 

The Pasta con Sarde is a traditional Sicilian dish that is made all over the island, using the same ingredients and differing in the various ways it is prepared. It is mostly often cooked from February to the end of May, because the wild fennels are tender and abundant in this period and the sardines are fished in large quantities.
In Palermo this dish is called Pasta di San Giuseppe and it is a tradition to cook the Pasta con Sarde on March 19, when Saint Joseph is celebrated.
Somehow the ancient custom to prepare special food to offer to the gods has been passed on to present time with a variation that instead of the pagan priest receiving the food, we eat and enjoy them with our family and friends.
The legend relates that due to an exceptional drought, Saint Joseph was begged to cause rain so the crops would grow and avoid that people would die of famine. When the rain came, to thank the Saint, a feast day was dedicated for his celebration and the ceremonious “Tavola di San Giuseppe”, Saint’s Joseph Table, was instituted.
The tavola consisted of a collection of food harvested around March 19. If it was set outside, in the court yard it was open to anybody or if it was set inside the house, it was limited to family and friends. If San Joseph was asked a favor and he granted it, the gratitude was shown by promising to repeat the Tavola celebration for a certain number of years.
The food on the table varies from town to town, but the bread of Saint Joseph and the pasta with wild fennels, salted or fresh sardines and breadcrumbs, are unfailingly on hand, along with assorted fried vegetables in pastetta, caponatina, fruits and vegetables in season. Usually no meat dishes are offered but the table is full of desserts according to the local production. Again, unfailingly on hand the sfingi di San Giuseppe along with bucciddati, pastries and cookies.
The Pasta con Sarde is made up with the local, ordinary and available ingredients. The unconventional blend of different flavors and aromas, the color and smell of saffron makes this exceptional pasta a favorite dish among the gourmets and food lovers.

 

 

 

The Fennels
Clean fennels by removing and discarding the roots and any discolored fronds. Rinse a few times and set aside.
Bring a large pot with 5 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil, add fennels and cook, keeping pot at a medium heat for 15 minutes or until fennels are very tender. Scoop out the boiled fennels with a slatted spoon and when they are cooled, chop them very fine. Save the fennel water for cooking the pasta.

 

The Onions
Over a medium flame, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a 3 quart saucepan.
Add diced onions, sauté until onions are golden, about 7 minutes.

 

The Breadcrumbs
In a 10 inch skillet, over a medium flame, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil add
2 tablespoons of sautéed onions and breadcrumbs. Keep stirring until crumbs are light brown. Place in a container and set aside. In some parts of Sicily onions are substituted with sugar.

 

The Sardines
Remove the head and place the sardines in a basin with cold water. Using your finger or a teaspoon, remove scales and discard interior. Open it and insert your finger under the bone to remove it.
Set aside and when finished rinse fish and place in a colander.
Pat dry the sardines with paper towels.
In a 10 inch skillet, over a medium flame, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil, add 2 tablespoons of the sautéed onions and the sardines.
Sautee the fish briefly, add ½ cup of the reserved water from the fennels, cook for an additional 3 minutes, and set aside.

 

The Sauce
Over a medium flame, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a 4 quart saucepan.
Add remaining onions, the salted anchovies and stir with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking until anchovies are almost melted, about 2 minutes.
Add chopped fennels, increase heat to high and cook for about 3 minutes.
Add the diluted saffron, currant, pine nuts, and ½ of the sautéed fresh sardines, salt and pepper to taste. Lower the flame and simmer for about 25 minutes.

 

The Pasta
Cook pasta according to package directions, reducing recommended cooking time by 2 minutes.
Drain pasta well and put back in pot. Mix in remaining saffron.
Toss in ½ of the sauce and 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs.
Mix for 2 minutes on low heat or until pasta and sauce are well combined.

 

Serving Suggestions
Plate individual portions of pasta, add a spoonful of sauce, some of the sardines and onions, and sprinkle each plate with breadcrumbs.
Serve immediately.

 

Note

If wild fennels are not available use the green foliage of bulb fennel.